Baby Boy Crochet Sleeping Bag Cocoon Pattern

So I’ve been super busy recently hitting the hook and getting my wool fix.  I attempted this week for the first time to write my very first crochet pattern.  This is a total first for me and I’ve got to say I’m pretty chuffed with the overall result.

PATTERN.jpg

 

So here it is in all its glory.  There maybe mistakes and it’s certainly not perfect so please be gentle with me.  I’d love to see some pics of your makes so feel free to share them in the comments along with any adjustments you made to the pattern.

2016-06-18 13.58.19

I’m happy to take constructive criticism so please feel free to pop your changes or suggestions in the comments below.

This pattern is written in US crochet terms

What You’ll Need

  • 4.5 mm crochet hook
  • approximately 700g dk baby yarn.  I used a baby blue colour
  • Darning Needle
  • Scissors
  • x4 buttons

Stitches Used & Abbreviations 

Click the names and be taken to pages that describe the stitch

Make a magic ring

Round 1

Ch 3 (does not count as first DC), DC 12 times into the magic ring, join in top of chain 3 (12)

Round 2

CH3 (does not count as first DC), 2DC into same stitch as chain and into each stitch around, join in top of CH3 (24)

Round 3

CH3 (does not count as first DC), 2DC in same stitch as chain then *1 DC into the next stitch, 2DC into the next stitch* repeat around and join in top of Ch3 (36)

Round 4

CH3 (does not count as first DC), DC in each stitch around (36)

Round 5

Repeat round 3 (54)

Round 6

Repeat round 4 (54)

Round 7

Repeat round 3 (81)

Round 8

Repeat round 4 (81) – do not join from round 9 on wards you will be working the piece back and forth like a blanket.

Row 1

Working so the wrong side is facing you (if the right side is facing do a row of HDC and then start row 1

CH2, (does not count as first HDC) HDC into same stitch as Ch *B in next stitch, HDC in next stitch* repeat until the end.  You should finish on a HDC.  If you don’t then end with the last 2 stitches being HDC.  Turn your work

Row 2

CH2, (does not count as first HDC) HDC into same stitch as Ch,  HDC across.  Turn your work.

You should always work the bobble so the wrong side is facing you and the HDC rows with the right side facing you.  This should result in your cocoon having a bobble texture on the outside of the cocoon (pic of texture below)

bobble

Keep working your rows until you have a total of 40 rows (20 bobble and 20 HDC) or until your work is approx 20 inches from first row to end.

Make your last row a row of bobble stitch.  Turn your work

The Edging

Now this is where it gets tricky in my ability to explain what I did so please bear with me.  If you’re struggling chances are it’s because I’m explaining it stupidly not because you can’t do it!

CH1, SC in same stitch as CH1, SC across the top of your work.  When you come to the end of the row SC3 in the last stitch to turn the corner and SC down the side of the rows putting 1SC in the end of each row.

When you reach the bottom SC across the gap and up the other side (you should be SC in the opposite end of the rows) and put 1 SC in the end of each row.  Do this a total of 2 times making sure you SC3 in each corner stitch.

Once you have joined the last time (you should have SC round twice) turn your work and CH3.  You are now going to DC along the edge that was the end of the rows (the edge where your buttons will go.  DC down the whole side working towards the bottom end of the cocoon.  When you reach the last 4 stitches of the first side do HDC in 2 stitches, SC in the last 2 stitches and SS into any stitches that are in between the 2 sides.

As you begin to crochet up the opposite side repeat this in reverse ie SC, SC, HDC, HDC (total of 4 stitches) then DC the remaining row up to the corner.  In the last stitch before turning the corner DC then CH3 and turn your work.

Lie your work flat and place your buttons where you would like them.  I worked my cocoon so (as I’m looking at it) the right hand side overlaps the left.  Therefore the button holes need to be on the right hand side.  Place stitch markers on the right hand side edge where you would like your buttons to be.  There should be roughly the same amount of DC between each button.

You are now going to SC along the right hand edge (if I’ve explained it right then you should be in the correct position to do this) Every time you reach a stitch marker remove it and SC into that stitch CH2, skip 2 stitches and SC into the 3rd stitch.  Repeat this to the end of the row (to the end of the right hand side – do not SC into the SS at the bottom) When the end of the row has been reached turn and CH1

SC into the same stitch as CH1 and all the way along to the end of the row.  SC twice in every CH2 to form the button holes turn and CH1

SC back down to the bottom of the cocoon SS across the gap and SC up the other side. When you reach the top end (the “neck”) SC3 in the corner and SC around until you reach the opposite side.  Fasten off and weave in all your ends.  Attach your buttons.

Hopefully all being well you should have something that looks like this……

If you’re not into crochet but would love one of these for yourself they can be purchased in my shop or on my Facebook page

6 thoughts on “Baby Boy Crochet Sleeping Bag Cocoon Pattern

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  5. What is the finished size? I’m looking for one for 6 -9 month baby rather than newborn. I want to make a lightweight one in cotton for the summer

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    • Hi Alice thanks so much for your query. This is most suitable for a baby aged 0-3 months
      (due to the length) however the actual size of the cocoon should be fine in terms of room for movement. I would just continue the amount of rows until you achieve the desired length for your little one and then finish the edging and button holes off after. I hope that makes sense. Be sure to share a pic when you’re done it sounds lovely!

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